How to align the hem

When sewing skirts with conical flares, there is often a problem with aligning the bottom cut. There are several reasons why the bottom of the skirt may become deformed:

     Cut on the bias. When cutting conical skirts, it is impossible to arrange the parts in such a way that the direction of the grain thread is the same across the entire width of the panel. Since all materials on the bias have greater elongation than on the warp or weft thread, accordingly, in areas cut on the bias, the fabric will sag more.
     Features of the figure. Most often here we are dealing with an asymmetrical pelvis - one hip may be higher than the other, or be more protruding. The shape of the buttocks can also contribute to a distorted hemline.

 
Tools and accessories for work

     chalk (or soap);
     a long ruler (it should not bend);
     tailor's scissors;
     pattern for designing a new line.

 
Hem alignment sequence

     Aligning the hem of a conical skirt should be done last. The top edge should be closed (with a facing or a stitched belt), the zipper (if present) should be sewn in, and the pockets should be finished.
     Before processing the bottom, let the skirt hang for a day on a mannequin or on a hanger.
     If the product is sewn for the customer, then put the skirt on him. In this situation, you can use a mannequin, but during fitting on the customer, we will be able to take into account all the features of his figure.
     It will be most convenient to work if you put the mannequin on the table, or ask the customer to stand on the table - this way you can avoid even the slightest errors in measurements.
     Visually determine the highest area from the floor to the bottom of the skirt.
     Place a ruler perpendicular to the floor (or table) and measure the distance from the bottom surface.
     Next, moving around the mannequin (or customer), measure the desired length along the entire bottom section of the skirt. The more often you mark, the more accurate the bottom line will be.
     Now the skirt can be removed and, using a tailor's pattern, carefully draw a new hemline, connecting the marks with a smooth line.
     Next, step back the laid allowance from the intended line and draw a line parallel to the first one.
     Trim off excess seam allowance with scissors. If the excess is very small and in the future you plan to process the bottom of the product using an overlocker, then you can cut off the allowances directly on the overlocker.
     You can study this issue in more detail using our video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qn9UschQ3-w

 
Processing the bottom hem

There are several options for processing the bottom of a conical skirt:

     The easiest way is to overcast the bottom edge and stitch it.
     A more “luxury” method is the “Moscow” seam. This type of processing is not suitable for thick, suiting fabrics or knitwear.
     Turning processing. It should be trimmed after the final adjustment of the bottom of the skirt.
     Processing with bias tape.
     You can also hem the bottom of the conical skirt with hand-blind stitches.